2025

The Children’s Grave & Skulls of Burgkirchen

BURGKIRCHEN, BAVARIA — The Teutonic Trio (daughter Mere, son-in-law Matt, and I) stopped in this small town for Matt’s brief dental appointment. Then it would be on to Burghausen, where Matt works most days, and more sightseeing for Mere and me. (More on that in the next installment of my Bavarian and Austrian adventure. Go to garyborders.com to read earlier pieces.) Mere and I bought espressos and shared a pastry before strolling around town. We quickly found a picturesque church — not surprising in Bavaria. St. Johann Baptist is a Catholic church first consecrated in 1477. It was locked....

Read more...

Touring Vienna on a Double-Decker Bus

VIENNA, AUSTRIA — I had an afternoon to myself once my son-in-law Matt and I arrived by train in Vienna, known here as Wien. Matt works part of the week here and the rest in Burghausen, a small Bavarian city on the border of Austria. (More on that next week.) While riding the train to Vienna I found several hop-on, hop-off bus tours online. I downloaded the app for one of them and bought a 24-hour pass for €34, about $40. I learned long ago that this is an excellent way to get an initial feel for a large city. Matt left for his office, while I walked out of the train station, called the Wien...

Read more...

One of the World’s Most Beautiful Libraries

VIENNA, AUSTRIA — I stood in State Hall, originally part of the imperial residence complex of the Hofburg Palace in the heart of Vienna, looking around and upward in awe. Walnut bookshelves stretched from floor to ceiling; all crammed tightly with 200,000 books published between 1501-1850. Above the shelves, some 30 meters high, is a domed cupola with an ornate fresco depicting the deification of Emperor Charles VI, painted by court artist Daniel Gran. It took him about five years — 1726-1730. I don’t know about Charles’s “deification,” but the fellow is responsible for building one of the most...

Read more...

Bending an Elbow at Munich’s Oktoberfest

MUNICH, GERMANY – For 215 years, folks have gathered to celebrate Oktoberfest at a 100-acre public space called Theresienwiese, named in honor of Princess Therese Charlotte Luise of Saxe-Hildburghausen, now part of the central German state of Thuringen. That is to the north of Bavaria, the country’s southernmost state. She married King Ludwig 1 of Bavaria in this meadow on Oct. 12, 1810. (This Ludwig is not the whacky one mentioned in a previous piece. He was the grandfather of Ludwig II, the mad king.) That meadow became the venue for Oktoberfest, now celebrated in Bavarian cities and in Texas...

Read more...

A Visit to Salzburg, Austria, Birthplace of Mozart

SALZBURG, AUSTRIA — Images of composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart are ubiquitous in this historic city. Mozart was born in 1756 and worked under the patronage of Prince-Archbishop Hieronymus Colloredo until he moved to Vienna at age 25. Apparently, he chafed at the restrictions placed upon him by the archbishop and either quit or was fired. Still, Salzburg proudly claims him as a hometown fellow who made good. Mozart died in Vienna 10 years later at the age of 35. Just before he died, the reportedly told his sister-in-law, “I have the taste of death on my tongue.” We (daughter Mere, son-in-law...

Read more...

Touring a Centuries-Old Austrian Salt Mine

HALLEIN, AUSTRIA — I am thankful never to have had to work in a salt mine, especially after touring Salzwelten Salzburg. That name refers to the Hallein Salt Mine on Dürrnberg Mountain, which stopped active operations in 1989 and is now advertised as the world’s oldest salt mine open to visitors. Daughter Mere, son-in-law Matt, and I took a train from Garching, a small town in Bavaria near their home in Unterneukirchen, to Salzburg, on the German-Austrian border. We then boarded a bus to reach the mining site, and afterward walked a few hundred yards uphill to the mine, which is now purely...

Read more...

Castle of Bavaria’s Mad King

HOHENSCHWANGAU, BAVARIA — Ludwig Otto Friedrich Wilhelm — aka King Ludwig II— had several nicknames: the Fairy King, the Swan King and, my favorite, the Mad King. He also held several dukedoms, but we won’t get into that. He ascended to the Bavarian throne, in what is now southern Germany, in 1866, at the age of 18. Ludwig had little interest in ruling over his country. He was introverted and showed scant concern in governmental matters, which quickly led to tensions with Bavaria’s ministers. The Mad King possessed two passions: building lavish castles and the German composer Richard...

Read more...

Learning to Love Pea Salad at Wyatt’s Cafeteria

Not long after we moved to Longview in June 1968, my paternal grandfather took us to dinner at Wyatt’s Cafeteria, which anchored a shopping center on High Street just off downtown, the same center where Tatum Music is today. He was newly widowed (but not for long — the man liked having a wife). We lived with him in his ranch-style house in Greggton until my parents could find a home to buy. (Greggton was initially known as Willow Springs, founded around 1873 as a railway stop. The name was changed in the early 1930s during the oil boom. A few miles west of downtown Longview, it was annexed...

Read more...

Ozzie, The Terrorist Kitty, Arrives

A four-legged terrorist now inhabits our home. It took a day or so to produce a name for the orange-striped rescue kitty that we took in from our veterinarian’s office, where he spent two long months recuperating from injuries so severe that they ought he might lose his leg. But an extended stay in close confinement allowed him to heal. When the call went out for anyone interested in adopting him, we quickly volunteered. Sadly, we lost Tater, our giant orange tabby, in February. We thought Olive, our other cat, would like the company. She has been morose since Tater died of cancer. The...

Read more...

Willie and Waylon Join the Band

Willie and Waylon have joined the clan of critters here at Three Geese Farm. With our four laying hens named Loretta Lynn, Dolly Parton, Patsy Cline, and June Carter Cash, we now have a barnyard-and-bovine band. Willie and Waylon are Longhorn steer calves, about six months old. They were a 70th birthday gift from my Beautiful Mystery Companion. The gift was not exactly a surprise. We had gone down to a farm near Cleveland, just north of Houston, in early April to pick them out while they were still being nursed by their mamas. (They are not brothers but part of the same herd.) Their arrival...

Read more...